Driving up the small path with a driving ban sign I imagine my navigation device would tell now: Please walk the rest of the route. Walk? Goodness, I’m not wearing the right shoes for that kind of trip. The height of my heels is considerable.
We are just in time. This is untypical for Egon and seems caused by his nephews which are accompanying us. Once in a year Egon takes them for a cultural trip. This time he had the idea they should not only learn traditional arts but also Gourmet. And that explains my presence.
Beforehand we had to remove the concern of the young men they could starve in a Michelin Star restaurant, we told them about all the Amuse Bouche, the brad and the variety of the different courses.
Arriving at the entrance we were friendly received. The car is parked by a doorman.
Here starts the shining atmosphere of the evening:
an relaxed, very professional, personal and incredibly attentive type of service.
We are west to Amsterdam. In the dunes near the national park.
Here the Restaurant De Bokkedoorns is located,
family owned in third generation and decorated with two Michelin Stars.
Warm welcome inside again, a sculpture in the entrance, followed by the main room to the right. The partition wall to a large kitchen and service office is a coloured glass. Nine tables in that room, seven in the left, seems a significant number for this category of restaurant. The room to the left has minor coloured effects but a window looking to the entrance and a small enchanted fountain. In front of that we will spent the evening. In my opinion one of the best seats in the house.
Even better is the opposite windows view: reed, dunes and a small lake.
The lake was originated in the 1950’s, we learn by our friendly waitress, cause they needed the sand somewhere else. This is an interesting detail on top of this idyllic place.
While building the lake the house was constructed too, in former times as tea salon. In the middle of 1960’s the parents of the owner John Beeren who took over in 1970’s built up their reputation. 1985 they were awarded the first, 1991 the second Michelin star.
In 2013 the experienced chef Menno Post took over in the kitchen.
We will try his creations.
Further on we enjoy the view due to serving the Apero outside the terrace.
It is excellent warm weather in May. Service is doing their outmost.
My choice out of three champagne is Ruinart.
The nephews select the non-alcoholic variation as the elder is our driver and the younger even nearly eighteen is not really interested in wine. They are served with a cocktail of abundantly in water marinated Kumquats, fresh mint and elderflower-syrup poured at the table. Taste is fresh, light and intense.
Pastry is served and we are impressed. Poultry liver and white chocolate praline is best pairing to the dark nutty notes of the champagne. Second is a little Baisier made from cream cheese, garlic and yoghurt.
Even the Amuse Bouche is impressing. Dutch shrimps cocktail with a potato base and terrific cocktail sauce aromatized with tomato and whisky. Highlight are tiny fried shrimps in the whole which produces only one demand: more of it! So delicate, so crispy.
We will now be placed at our table I described initially.
Light bread with salted butter, intense olive oil and two sorts of salt are waiting for us.
The nephews are content.
A little too fast the first course is served. I’m still occupied with the bread.
But this is my problem. Since we have chosen five courses we have to start.
To get straight to the point: every course is a culinary journey.
You should be open to every detail for maximum delight.
The accompanying wines also harmonize.
smoked, only a little poached and very soft. It is served with red radish, slices of cucumber, marinated silver onions, a fantastic puree of parsley and coriandre, at least this is what I meant to taste.
In the middle a sort of mushroom flan with an eggnog whose texture is extraordinary. The Sommelier tells us that they freeze the whole egg and use the eggnog afterwards to get it in this fantastic consistence. How to get it exactly so smooth will be one of the secrets of the Chef. Completed by sautéed small mushrooms and an expressive vinaigrette which connects egg, lobster and wine.
2014 Weißburgunder from Weingut Herrmann, Mosel, starts with light okay notes and a fresh acid which accompanies the different flavours of the dish. Short aftertaste.
this plate is my absolute favourite of the evening. Continuing the variety of food it will be added by more details and crossing the individual components there raise new variations of taste.
The cod seems poached, very delicate with perfect consistence. He is served under a baked salted sourdough thaler which gives a perfect contrast. Leaving the thaler first there is richness of different components: fantastic leek pesto, mushroom mousse, tiny celery cubes, baked mushrooms. And last but not least: light creamy sherry sauce with addiction potential.
2015 Pecorino from Contesa vinery, Abruzzen, pairs excellent this course. The grapes we learn are fermented half in barrels half in steel to smooth the bitterness of the grape. The result is a wine with elegant freshness, with flavour of citrus fruits, some mineral and soft fruit on the palate structure.
We would love to drink a bottle of that wine. But we had decided to follow the recommendations of the professionals here and there is much more to follow.
Next course we split. The nephews have chosen Sweetbread. Egon and I go for the scallops. I would highly recommend to take both of these courses.
are continuing the firework of components and flavours.
Our charming waitress shows a little something sitting on the scallop and nearly could be overseen.
It is dried tuna, who starts moving if lightly warmed. This is amazing, adorable. Furthermore the moving tuna impresses with intense taste: salty, nutty and a bit like Tran. The Mini scallop are sautéed and served with white asparagus tips, jellied asparagus broth, parsley pesto and a bacon foam which seems to taste genius. Parts of the foam are wrapped in slices of bacon. This is artistic. The dishes are characterized by their contrasts and it is a thrill discovering them.
2014 Chardonnay, Vincent La Tour, Bourgogne, is not convincing. Contrary to his 18 month in a barrel he has lots of superficial acid and lacks some dark fruity and toasty notes to the tasty dark dish. We learn the vineyard belongs to a flying winemaker who only buys selected grapes. We blame it on the vintage. 2014 has been a stubborn wine year.
The plate offers a different manner: rustic and new interpreted. Sweetbread is served in a batter with salt crystals. Fine but filling, steamed baked apple in small slices and an exciting BBQ sauce which nearly leads our youngster to ask for the receipt. This is an unknown intense taste: tight, nearly lack, smoky. Amazing. And to top it all the waitress leaves the sauce pot at the table.
Now it is time to leave a word about the other non-alcoholic creations which were served to the guys. First course was accompanied by a huge cognac glass filled with some ice cube ball violets and poured rhubarb-syrup. Very tasty but sweet.
The sweetbread is corresponded with a tumbler filled with blossoms, poured with ginger and Tonic.
Very successful drink.
It has to be mentioned that the friendly service also takes care of that.
Let us continue the menu. It follows the main course and what a pity – we have exceeded half.
saddle of lamb which keeps its perfect texture and remains pink even after minutes of adoring.
The shoulder melts into tender pieces. The sauce is spicy and adorable and here also they leave it on the table. What luxury for the guests.
Once more the details are unique. The ratatouille appears as flower arranged from vegetable slices.
A very tasty half of mini artichoke is filled with olives paste. And to top it small croquettes maid from Polenta.
2012 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano from Poliziano vinery, Toskana, reflects the course superb.
Smooth Sangiovese with flavours of tobacco, some tar, wood and lots of intense fruit with raisins and plum.
We split again. Half of us will choose cheese. The others will have desert.
Regarding all the impressions, our conversation and the passing time I miss to try the desert.
The cheese wagon is very well sorted and the advices of the waiter are very well balanced.
Additional served fresh dark spice brad with nuts is another legend of this kitchen.
Pineau des Charentes fromFrancois Peyrot, is a very interesting and exciting choice of the Sommelier.
Dark coloured, bit oaky, toasty with lots of raisins and ripe fruits does this again pair the strong cheese.
The desert egg flip is a variety of Baisers and jelly und accompanied by a sweet Semillion which fits extremely well.
Finally we move again to the terrace to enjoy coffee and Petit Fours. We asked for it and follow most of the guests. Because it turned cold outside I am thoughtfully served with a blanket over my shoulders.
There is a little chocolate lolly which impresses most. But also the praline with Macadamia nuts concludes the evening in perfect taste.
Chef Menno Post and his crew are creating a sensual taste and a very challenging kitchen.
One Dinner evening is not enough to discover all the diversity.
Once more I want to emphasize the special influence of the professional, personal and charming service to the sensual extraordinary experience.
Dinner in The Bokkedoorns is worth every trip.
4 courses € 80 to 7 courses € 125
4 courses € 40 to 7 courses € 62,50
The dinner in the vision of the restaurant’s menu:
smoked with marinated regional vegetables and mushrooms
baked on sourdough, garlic, light Sherry sauce
grilled with Dutch white asparagus, mark, parsleys crust, light jellied asparagus broth
crispy sautéed with creamy Fregula, mushrooms, baked apple, BBQ sauce
sautéed saddle, poached shoulder, polenta, ratatouille, lamb sauce
selection of different choices
almonds caviar, Brandy jelly. Parfait of Yuzu, mousse of sugar bread, eggnog liquor
The name of the Bokkedoorns raises from a thornbush which grows in the dunes and has orange seeds.
Thank you to the Beeren family for providing me with the restaurant fotos.
Rights of food fotos by Saskia de Wal.